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Shine On
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Šta svaki mladi audiofil triba znat o "onin" stvarima...

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1. Where should I position my loudspeakers ?

Absolute positioning will very much depend on your individual room layout and acoustic properties, but we can give you a few general guidelines to get you started. Try to avoid placing your speakers close into corners of a room, as this can cause an over emphasis of bass frequencies creating an unpleasant resonance. Similarly, if the speakers are too close to a rear wall, a similar problem may occur. Generally and where physically possible, try to allow at least 1 metre from a corner and a 1/2 metre from a rear wall. This applies particularly to ported loudspeakers, where the bass frequency response is enhanced. If siting close to a wall is inevitable, try to avoid rear-ported models.

The ideal listening position can be obtained when seated centrally between the loudspeakers, at a distance roughly 1.5 times the width between them. If sitting closer than this, it may be necessary to toe the speakers in slightly towards the listener until a stable image is obtained. All Ruark loudspeakers are designed to provide the widest possible sound dispersion, so even when sitting off axis or when the ideal listening position is impractical, all is not lost. With a little care and experimentation, excellent results can normally be obtained in even the most unconventional of rooms. The individual requirements of each Ruark speaker will be slightly different, and time spent adjusting position and maybe modifying the acoustics of your room with soft furnishings if required, is well worthwhile.




2. What is mass loading and how much should I use?

Ruark provide a mass loading facility on most of our floor-standing loudspeakers, which allows the customer to partially tailor the systems' response to individual room acoustics. This is achieved by placing variable amounts of sand, lead shot or other branded speaker fillers such as 'Sound Bites', into a sealed cavity at the base of the cabinet. On Ruark loudspeakers this can be accessed by the removal of the black plastic plug on the rear panel of each cabinet, and can be removed carefully with your fingers. If the plug has been pushed fully home, it will be necessary to prise it out very carefully with a flat bladed screw-driver or blunt knife, using a piece of card to protect the speaker cabinet from damage.

The purpose of mass loading is not just to add weight to the cabinet, and therefore improve the stability of the unit, but also to increase the damping properties of the cabinet thereby adjusting the tonal balance. It may be of some benefit where certain acoustic problems are encountered, such as unpleasant resonance and lack of definition at some bass frequencies, or when placed upon suspended wooden floors. We suggest that you initially half fill the compartment and then listen to the results, as the amount of loading required will depend much on the acoustic properties of each room. Also, the speakers should be fully run-in before mass loading any further and the final adjustments are made. With the speakers initially half filled, it will be easier to assess the performance gains and a little experimentation will achieve the optimum result.

In extreme cases it may be necessary to consider placing stone or marble slabs under the loudspeakers to provide a more stable platform.



3. What cable should I use?

This is a very subjective question as everybody has different priorities when it comes to sound reproduction. With certain amplification, the manufacturer's recommendations should be observed, especially if the equipment has been balanced to operate within particular cable specifications. Failure to do this can result in damage to both the amplifier and loudspeakers, which will not be covered under warranty. If in doubt you should consult the amplifier manufacturer directly, to check the suitability of your desired cable.

When bi/tri-wiring or bi/tri-amping, we would recommend using the same cable for each cable run and try as much as possible to keep the length of each cable the same. A great deal of time has been spent developing the cross-over network of your Ruark loudspeakers to obtain the optimum tonal balance between the speaker drive units, this balance can be adversely effected by mixing cable types. In practice although slight differences in sound can be heard by doing this, you can spend an lot of time experimenting with cable but never being entirely happy with the sound quality overall. If you have any specific worries regarding the sound your system is reproducing, contact your nearest dealer for advice.



4. Which amplifier best matches my loudspeakers and which speakers best match my amplifier?

These are probably the most difficult questions to answer and the most controversial. Everyone here at Ruark has their own preferences when it comes to choosing amplification to use at home, a selection which tends to change regularly dependant on the speaker model being used. To be honest the subject is an absolute minefield and it would be impossible for us to recommend specific amplifier brands, however we can give more general rules. When it comes to matching amplifier power to loudspeakers, you should only use the power handling figures shown in the specifications as a guide. It is far more important to ensure that the amplifier is able to deliver its power cleanly without distortion, as it is this that will damage your speakers over extended listening periods. Factors such as matching impedance and loudspeaker sensitivity have to be taken into account when choosing loudspeaker and amplifier combinations, and it is here that advice from your dealer will be invaluable. Another aspect that may need your careful evaluation, are an amplifier's characteristics. An amplifier that has a tendency to sound slightly "forward" or aggressive, partnered with loudspeakers with similar characteristics, may produce listening fatigue over long periods. A reverse situation, where the two components possess a more "retiring" quality, may produce an unengaging sound, possibly lacking dynamic information. Careful appraisal is required after conducting investigative listening tests, and again, you will find our authorised dealers to be very knowledgeable and helpful. It is also worth mentioning that poor ancillary equipment will affect performance profoundly and an inferior signal will not be at all improved by reproduction through a high quality loudspeaker. With this in mind you should ask yourself the following questions: -

What styles of music do I listen to?
What volume level do I like to listen at?
How large is my listening room?
Would I prefer stand-mounted or floor-standing loudspeakers?
All of these factors will effect both the types of speaker and the amplification suitable for your needs. If the speakers are to be used within an audio-visual system, you may need to consider whether they need to be magnetically shielded (see below). Speakers which are too small for the listening environment will tend to sound strained when played at respectable volume levels, unless a sub-woofer is used to supplement the bass performance. Conversely speakers that are too large for your room will tend to be over-powering and may generate too much bass. We would always suggest that you discuss your individual requirements with your nearest Ruark Authorised Dealer for specific matching enquiries.



5. About power handling and power output figures

Ruark speakers has been engineered to present an easy and efficient load to amplifier output stages, whether multi-channel Home Theatre amplifier/receivers, or high performance audiophile systems. However, power-handling figures are based on undistorted speech and music signals in normal domestic environments, and although Ruark loudspeakers are designed to handle high sound pressure levels, overdriving or overloading the speakers is possible. The symptoms are clearly audible as distortion, or in extreme circumstances a 'pronounced click' as the voice coil travels beyond its limit. In such circumstances, the amplifier volume should be reduced immediately. Amplifier output power and loudspeaker handling figures should be used only as a guide. For instance, some music tracks may contain subsonic bass that will use up a large proportion of the system's resources, although it may be virtually inaudible until a problem occurs. Generally, an amplifier with a higher output rating than the loudspeaker, used conservatively, will perform more efficiently than an amplifier with a lower rating that is working beyond its capacity and overdriving. Any persistent, sustained overdriving will result in component failure, and this is not covered by our warranty. Provided the amplifier is correctly connected, not overdriven, or excessive use made of tone or contour features, damage should not occur to either the amplifier or speaker system.



6. What is the function of the crossover?

This is the electrical circuitry inside the loudspeaker that is responsible for splitting the audio signal into low and high frequencies. Once separated, high frequencies are sent to the treble unit (tweeter), and low frequencies to the bass unit (woofer). The internal crossover plays a significant part in the final performance of the loudspeaker.



7. Is magnetic shielding important?

Often assumed as being a pre-requisite for audio/visual systems, in reality magnetic shielding need only be strictly considered where the speakers are placed on or in the immediate vicinity of a Television screen. All Ruark centre channel models feature magnetic screening, as does the Prologue R. However the effect of magnetic radiation with TV screens can usually be avoided with careful positioning. N.B. In many designs magnetic shielding compromises driver and overall system performance.
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Šta svaki mladi audiofil triba znat o "onin" stvarima...

Post by Shine On »

ROOM ACOUSTICS
Despite major advances in loudspeaker design, the listening environment still has the greatest Influence on overall system performance, Individual room conditions can effect performance dramatically and where possible you should ensure the environment has a natural sound balance. If you are unsure as to whether or not your room has good acoustic properties, then try these two simple tests.

When you talk, does your voice sound natural and balanced?

2) Stand in various sections of the room and clap your hands sharply together. Can you hear a distinct (slap-back) echo that seems to take time to decay?

If your answer to either is yes, then time spent improving the acoustics of your room will adding a greater improvement than you expect and can normally be achieved, by adding a few soft furnishings, bookshelves, pictures etc.




POSITIONING
Several basic parameters can be applied to finding the optimum positioning of all stereo loudspeaker systems, however experimentation is the key, notwithstanding that your loudspeakers will have to integrate with other room furnishings, (see diagram 7)

Depending on the size and shape of your room, the ideal listening position will usually be when the seated listener is mid-way between left and right channels. Where possible they should be symmetrically placed a minimum of 2m or approximately two thirds of the distance from the seated listener apart. This will allow the stereo images to fully develop.

Try to avoid placement closer than 60cm from the corners of the room, which may result in an undefined bass response.

The rear boundary of a room will re-enforce certain frequencies and affect the depth of the stereo sound stage, particularly the rear ported designs. We would suggest that initially placement should be approximately 20-40cm from the rear boundary. Again experimentation will achieve the desired low frequency response.

Finally experiment by adjusting the angle of the speakers towards the seated listener, which will improve the focus of the central image.

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CABLES AND AMPLIFIERS
There are numerous exotic cable and connection systems available and their use depends entirely upon your preferred choice, or the amplifier system being used. The type of cable Will not harm your loudspeakers, but certain cables have been known to cause problems with certain brands of amplification. These manufacturers often recommend their own cables, but if in doubt please seek your dealer’s advice,

Cables from the amplifier to the loudspeakers should where possible be kept as short as possible, but always equal lengths to each loudspeaker. Longer lengths can be used, however increased signal degradation may occur due to losses within the cable.

Ensure all cable connections within the system are clean and tight and that both correct channel identification and polarity has been made. Good maintenance should involve the periodic remaking of connections, as oxidation between contacts can occur even in the cleanest environments,

POLARITY AND CHANNEL IDENTIFICATION
It is important to observe correct polarity when connecting the loudspeakers to your amplifier. If correct polarity is not maintained stereo imaging, depth of field and bass, are greatly impaired, The majority of speaker cables usually carry a form of polarity identification Normally the positive terminals on the amplifier are connected to the positive terminals on the speaker. We recommend that you experiment by using this method first and then by altering the phase so the positive terminal from the amplifier connects to the negative on the speakers. With certain amplifiers that phase invert, you may find that sound quality is improved by this reversal of phase. Providing both loudspeakers are connected identically, no harm can come to your amplifier or speakers.




BI/TRI WIRING
All RUARK loudspeaker systems can be either bi or tri-wired. Where possible we recommend you take advantage of this facility, the additional cost being that of one or two additional pairs of speaker cables. If different cable types are used to each drive unit, bear in mind that the sound balance of the loudspeaker system may alter. In certain circumstances this may be desirable, but we recommend initially all cables should be of the same type and make. Dedicated Bi-wire cables are available from many manufacturers with four conductors housed within one outer sheath. Whatever you choose, your RUARK dealer will be happy to advise and supply the cabling that best suits your needs.

Before bi/tri-wiring it is important to remove the linking bars between the terminals on the rear of the loudspeaker. Fig 2 opposite clearly identifies the correct termination procedure.

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Bookshelf/ Standmount Models
These compact monitor systems achieve optimum performance when mounted on rigid high mass stands between 45cm (15”) to 61cm (24”) high. Ideally the high frequency unit (tweeter) should be at the same height as the seated listener. Stands should be mounted and levelled on the flooring with base spikes where possible.

Where conditions do not permit, they can be mounted on suitably strong shelves or speaker brackets positioned away from corners and pointing towards the listening area. Ensure that books or other objects do not impair the sound and that the front of the speakers are level with the front edge of the shelf.

Floorstanding Models
Most floor standing design's are supported by adjustable spikes which screw directly into the base of the loudspeaker. Once final positioning has been selected, these spikes should be adjusted so the loudspeaker system is both level and rigid and the locking nuts tightened.

Many models additionally have the facility for mass loading by means of a sealed compartment accessible by removing the plastic bung near the base on the rear of the cab/nets. We recommend where possible you make use of this facility, the additional mass providing maximum stability, whilst effective loading will result in tighter, firmer bass lines and a more focused image. They can be filled with varying amounts of lead shot (or similar) and or DRY sand, but care should be taken not to over damp the speakers by loading too much, resulting in a slower sound, instruments appearing dull and flat. We suggest to initially half fill the compartment and then listen to the results.

The amount of loading required depends much on the acoustic of each room, but with the speakers initially half filled a little experimentation will achieve the optimum result.
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Post by Shine On »

Three key components for optimal sound and classic style:

The fundamental principle behind Echo Busters is simple. Before you spend another dollar on audio equipment, upgrade the one component that will give you back your greatest rewards, your room! Only with an acoustically balanced room can you attain state-of-the-art sound reproduction. Echo Busters improve the acoustics in your room, creating a truly realistic soundstage. Echo Busters treat rooms effectively, inexpensively and, best of all, decoratively. Echo Busters products are easy to use and install. The lightweight Echo Buster and Double Buster panels are left free-standing (with optional bases) or hung like pictures on a wall. One small nail holds each panel. Bass Busters can be put into corners or left anywhere in the room, depending where the sound benefits most.

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Echo Busters - "Absorption"

The most common bad acoustical environment is a bright reflective room. We're not just talking about a sun-drenched, tile-floored bare-walled room, although these are exactly the kind of rooms which are bad acoustical spaces. The sound bounces back and forth, mercilessly ricocheting off the walls, windows, floors and ceilings, dying out about three seconds after the sound was issued. Echo Busters are specifically designed to absorb the echoes, reverberations and distortions which smear the soundstage your speakers are trying to recreate. In reducing reflected sound, a quieter and more revealing listening environment will be created. Music may be played louder without discomfort, and it helps keep sound in your room where it belongs, not bouncing around the whole house. With proper treatment, you can still have your sun-drenched room and be drenched in sound as well!

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Double Busters - "Diffusion & Absorption"
(pictured with optional stands)

Double Busters create the soundfield diffusion that is the hallmark of a great acoustical space. By redirecting and scattering flat sound waves, a lively and involving listening experience is realized. Serving double duty through both absorption and reflection, Double Busters are invaluable for any home entertainment system. Available for wall mounting or on stands.

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Bass Busters - "Bass Control Diffusion"

Bass Busters improve bass reproduction in your audio or home theater environment by removing unwanted low frequencies. Standing waves are formed by sound bouncing off walls, floors and ceilings and crashing into each other at certain points in the room. These low frequencies need to be removed to allow you to hear the full bass extension your speakers are capable of reproducing. Bass Busters increase the dimensionality of your soundstage imaging by reflecting unabsorbed sound in a hemispherical pattern back into the room. They are available in 4, 5 and 6 foot heights.

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PHASE-4
Four-way Full Frequency Tower

High Performance to the FOURTH POWER!

Provides superior control of boomy, "one-note" bass
Helps control mid and high frequencies
Attain the full bass extension speakers are capable of reproducing
Simple, yet effective dynamics: Diffusion X 2 + Absorption X 2
Extensive selection of fabric will match any decor
4 ways to rotate tower for on-site acoustical attenuation as needed

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Shine On
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Šta svaki mladi audiofil triba znat o "onin" stvarima...

Post by Shine On »

Here is a basic room:

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A: Echo Busters
B: Corner Busters
C: Double Busters
D: Bass Busters


Most rooms are rectangular and the best of these, acoustically, have lengths that are approximately one and a half (1.5) times the width. In other words; a 10' wide room should be roughly 15' long, a 14' wide room would be 21' in length and so on. This has to do with frequency interaction within the room boundaries and these "golden ratio" rooms have the least interactive frequencies. But any size room can be made to sound better by using Echo Busters decorative acoustical treatments.

The ideal placement of Echo Busters (A) absorption panels which yield the best results, almost always includes treating the walls behind the speakers, and the side walls in front of the speakers. This helps to solidify the center imaging and to capture the first reflections. The Echo Busters work by converting sound energy that strikes the panel into mechanical energy and then dissipating it as heat. The end result is a cleaner, less confused audio experience. See the areas marked "A" in the above diagram.

The Corner Busters (B) are placed in the ceiling corners. This eliminates the "megaphone" effect corners are infamous for. Corners are also known for having ALL frequencies eventually find their way there. By neatly capping this corner juncture with a Corner Buster, you'll create a surface that absorbs almost all the frequencies that hit upon it and prevent them from being ricocheted back into the room, amplified like a megaphone. The center of the Corner Buster has a reflective section which allows the higher frequencies to retain their sparkle while effectively eliminating mid-range echoes. Even the lower frequency bass notes are somewhat tamed due to the air space that's created behind the Corner Buster acting as an efficient bass trap. See the areas marked "B" in the above diagram. For more bass control, see Bass Busters.

Double Busters (C) work best on side walls from the middle of the room back, as well as on the rear wall behind your listening position. Many people like to use them behind the speakers as well to create a livelier presentation of the music. Experimentation in your own system will ultimately tell what works best for you.

Based on a poly-cylindrical diffusion/absorption design, Double Busters provide excellent dispersion on both the vertical and horizontal plane depending on the way they're mounted on the wall. When the sound waves strike the curved surfaces of the Double Buster panel, thousands of reflections surround you with sound and create the illusion that the back and side walls virtually disappear.

Though less absorbent over the entire frequency spectrum than Echo Busters, Double Busters actually work better at lower frequencies because of their construction. The two curved surfaces act as diaphragms when lower frequencies activate them and transform the sound vibrations into heat which is dissipated into the surrounding foam. See panels marked "C" in the above diagram.

Bass Busters (D) have many positions where they work best. Based on the Helmholz resonator principle, Bass Busters are designed to absorb sound in the critical 60 Hz. to 225 Hz. frequency range. The Helmholtz resonator can be understood best by the example of blowing across the mouth of a bottle. The low frequency tone that you hear is the bottle's resonant frequency. When bass-heavy music is played, the Bass Busters' resonant frequency is excited and they resonate, or vibrate, sympathetically and wick off some of this bass energy from the room. This allows kick drums to sound tighter and pedal organs to sound deeper and more well-defined. See the areas marked "D" in the diagram above.


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Two Echo Busters panels were hung on the wall behind the loudspeakers and two were placed on the sidewalls at the point of the first reflection. The Double Busters were placed in front of the two sliding glass doors directly behind the listening seat. This placement diffused early rear wall reflection that may have adversely affective imaging and soundstaging. Each of the two Bass Busters were placed in a corner behind the loudspeakers.

The treated room's ambient noise level seemed to be reduced significantly, and reproduced music appeared to emerge from an astonishingly black background.
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Stype

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Post by Stype »

Pozdrav!

Vjerujem da vama koji pratite tematiku kućnih kina, lcd/plazma ekrana i zvučnjaka neće biti :wee: , ali meni kao početniku bi bilo od velike pomoći dobiti odgovore na pitanja:

1. kako bi po kvaliteti poredali na našem tržištu dostupne proizvođače LCD TV-a (Toshiba, Pioneer, Philips, Samsung, LG, Hitachi, Sony, Quadro...), zanima me osnovna klasa 32" HD ready. Jel ima uopće neke razlike vezano za LCD matrice, možda su neki proizvođači u osnovi jedno te isto (mislim na matricu) samo sa drugim znakovima? Specifikacije pojedinih modela znam protumačiti, samo me zanima jesu li neki skloni kvarenju, mrtvim pixelima i tome slično, više od drugih?
2. HDMI-kabelom prenosi se i slika i zvuk? A HDMI se spaja na adapter pa na DVI izlaz iz grafičke?
3.moram li skidati izolaciju sa UTP kabela i plesti pojedinačne parice ili mogu samo na krajevima spojiti 4 za + i 4 za - ?
4. imaju li receiveri uobičajeno mogućnost individualnog podešavanja glasnoće pojedinih kanala kako bi lakše upario zvučnike različite snage/osjetljivosti?

Eto, neki od vas su imali prilike vidjeti više uređaja, neki i radite u dućanima tehničkom robom, pa sigurno znate dosta toga. Nemam za sada nijednu komponentu (ispravka, imam komp koji bi bio izvor slike i zvuka), želja mi je kupiti LCD, receiver, komplet 5.1 slabije kvalitetnih zvučnika i par kvalitetnijih za stereo za muziku (ako bi to na kraju bio 7.1, mada mi je dovoljno i 5.1) Prema tome, svaka, svaka pomoć je dobrodošla, da poslije nebi bilo :wallbash: !

Hvala!
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Post by denister »

uuu sad bi se terror mogao raspisati....čak su i ptanja dobra tako da odgovri bi mogli pod sticky(puno pitaju ovi ispod mene:))
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Post by Alien »

[QUOTE=Stype;226639]
2. HDMI-kabelom prenosi se i slika i zvuk? A HDMI se spaja na adapter pa na DVI izlaz iz grafičke?
[/quote]
Kod grafičkih kartica imaš DVI2HDMI adapter prenosi i sliku i zvuk. To mogu kartice najnovije generacije. Kartice bez DVI2HDMI adaptera mogu putem DVI kabla prenositi video signal po HDCP standardu sto znaci samo video
4. imaju li receiveri uobičajeno mogućnost individualnog podešavanja glasnoće pojedinih kanala kako bi lakše upario zvučnike različite snage/osjetljivosti?

Konkretno imam receiver koji ima mogucnost na kanalima front, rear, surround i SW stelati gain u koracima +/- 10dB. Mislim da ti je to individualno od uređaja do uređaja, te za takve detalje treba malo RTFM :)
The more money you put in your system, the bigger smile you'll have on your face...
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Post by terrordrome »

1. Philips
2. Sharp
3. Samsung
4. Sony
5. ostala kompanija tipa Toshiba, LG, itd.
6. Pioneer za sada radi isključivo plazme :)
Što se tiče matrice, koliko sam upoznat jedino Philips ima 14-bitnu matricu koja trenutno omogućuje prikaz puno većeg broja boja od ostalih
Na pitanje koji su više skloni kvarovima, bad pixelima, odgovor je : svi se kvare i nitko ti nemože garantirat da ti se neće pokvarit!
Danas je sve masovna proizvodnja i čak vrhunski modeli renomiranih proizvođača se kvare!
Sugestija prilikom kupovine:
U mom dućanu ima cca. 100 flat panela, većinom su spojeni na isti signal i većinom je to signal sa satelita koji ide iz HD satelitskog receivera na razdjeljnik signala i potom na televizije. Neki od njih su spojeni na HD demonstratore a većina se može spojiti na običnu antenu čisto da se vidi na šta sliči slika kad je signal u niskoj rezoluciji!
Ti dođeš i neznaš otkuda početi, e savjet je da si uzmeš u uži izbor cca.3 modela koji ti se sviđaju slikom, dizajnom ili cijenom. Pitaš trgovca za savjet uz napomenu da ti se ti modeli sviđaju i odrediš mu neki gornji cjenovni limit!
Trgovac će, ako je kao ja, reći što misli o ta tvoja tri favorita i skrenuti eventualno pozornost ne neke modele koje on smatra best-buy uređajaem ili boljim rješenjem.
S tehničke strane također ćemo raspraviti o razlikama među tim modelima!
Onda, vjerojatno izbezumljen svim tim silnim podacima nećeš znati više kako se zoveš ili ćeš se pokolebati u kupovini...
E sad nastupa na scenu ono šta bezbroj puta znam ponoviti:
Bez obzira na tehničke specifikacije, bez obzira na ono šta ja (trgovac) kažem, bez obzira na recenzije u časopisima, tvoje oko te nemože prevariti!
Dakle, za onaj konačni odabir, uvijek se vrati na samu sliku na televizoru! Tu se nemože lagati, ako je tv dobar, imat će dobru sliku, ako je loš, onda će imati lošu sliku!
Ono što trebaš kao potencijalni kupac gledati na slici:
-slika kod brzih pokreta nebi smjela trzati, zamućivati se ili imati zrnate konture
-gledaj crnu boju, LCD-i imaju konstantno pozatinsko osvjetljenje koje stvara probleme kod reprodukcije crne boje pa se ima dojam da je crna ustvari siva, tamno plava
-gledaj bijelu boju, neki televizori zbog efektnije slike bijelu boju bacaju na plavičastu
-gledaj boju ljudske kože, nju je najteže dobiti da prirodno izgleda, da nije prenaglašena, flourescentna ili preblijeda
-gledaj da slika ima određenu dubinu, trodimenzionalnost, da nije plošne izvedbe
Ostale stvari smatram sporednim, iako su neke od njih važne, tipa broj i vrsta konekcija!
Televizor se kupuje da se uživa u slici, prema tome ona je uvijek najbolja referenca!
Ovo o HDMI i spajanju nisam čitao do kraja jer sam vidio da je Alien odgovorio!
Eto, nadam se da nisam zakomplicirao stvari i da je pomoglo!
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Post by Stype »

E, ovo su super odgovori! terrordrome, Alien idol:: thanks

Slobodno može još informacija i osobnih iskustava, evo dobri ljudi moderatori napraviše od ovoga i sticky, pa nek bude korisno svim početnicima!

Još pitanja! Za što bi se odlučili da imate komp kao izvor slike i zvuka,
1. (TERRATEC Aureon 7.1 ili CREATIVE LABS SB X-Fi Extreme music) + (LOGITECH Z5500 ili CREATIVE LABS GIGAWORKS 7.1 S750E THX) (znači komb kvalitetne zvučne kartice i kompleta zvučnika vrijednosti cca 3000-3400 kn) ili
2. receiver početne klase proizvođača yamaha, pioneer, onkyo, denon u rangu 1500-2300 kn + komplet zvučnika 800-1300 kn?
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Post by Alien »

Konkretno imam doma Terratec 5.1 Sky karticu spojenu optikom na 5.1 AV receiver. Kartica je zaakon, postoje neki beta driveri za Vistu za nju i rade dobro. Zvuk je dobar. Problemi su standardni, natjeravanje AC3 kodeka da radi na SPDIF, na Divx-ima i Matroska-om. PowerDVD radi k'o sat na SPDIF-u. I ostalo sve sljaka k'o puska. Takav setup i tebi preporucujem. Istina, vidio sam neke djecje bolesti sa Vistom, no sve su bile povezane sa kodecima.

Pametno je investirati u neku HDMI kompatibilnu VGA karticu, jer danas-sutra kad se tehnologija rasiri masama, imat ces vec gotov setup za HD guste u četiri zida :)
The more money you put in your system, the bigger smile you'll have on your face...
Renesis

newbie postavlja nekoliko laganih pitanja...

Post by Renesis »

ovisi sto trazis od zvuka :) ja imam doma Audigy 2ZS + Z5500, i za filmice pogledat tu i tamo su ok, ali njihova glavna namjena je da rade puno buke :D pogotovo sub, koji je malo prenaglasen u odnosu na ostatak kompleta (sub na otprilike pola ili malo manje je za ok, sve preko postaje prenaglaseno).

s druge strane imas stereo sistem, koji ce imat kvalitetniji zvuk (pogotovo ako ne uzimas novo...)
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